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Re: Hydraulic brakes

Posted: Tue, 04 Dec 2018, 8:13 pm
by knockdolian
Well for anyone interested mini brake shoes are the same size as the Portafold ones
The hole in the mini back plate is 35mm, the hole in the Portafold back plate is 64mm. I used a 35mm hole saw to centralise the mini backplate on the pillar drill then cut the 64mm hole.. I pushed the back plate on to the stub axle and marked the mount holes from the back. You can only get to Three but that should be enough as the mini only has three.
I then fitted all the brake bits and it all looks sweet. Fitted the drum tightened the nut and backed it off about 1/8 to 1/4 of a turn and the drum spins freely. The hand brake will also work once I buy and fit quadrants. I’m doing this between jobs so there may not be any progress for some time. But the theory looks good

Re: Hydraulic brakes

Posted: Fri, 11 Jan 2019, 6:39 pm
by knockdolian
For anyone following my slow progress I’m sorry. I’ve now finished all but the tidy up and tested it tonight. Seems to work well.
Mini parts fit after modifying the back plates and the hydraulic connector worked as it should. The hand brake works using a wire cable with a mini compensator and at the moment a length of m8 rod. Just need to secure all the hoses now and make sure the Portafold wheels don’t lock up before the trike wheels. Having an issue adding photos but I will soon.

Re: Hydraulic brakes

Posted: Fri, 11 Jan 2019, 10:36 pm
by knockdolian
B2431E53-1CC3-4F30-A39D-A22FA6662EA3.jpeg
Back plate with mini parts
D3C999BD-C59A-452E-B795-79638E5EEBBF.jpeg
No leak coupling
6D419308-DB62-48B8-8FF7-921C5D94A407.jpeg
Flexible hoses to allow suspension to work
75A583F2-045A-4693-8BB4-399FF647DA5D.jpeg

Re: Hydraulic brakes

Posted: Sat, 16 Feb 2019, 6:49 pm
by bigherb
Just seen this, nice job, just one note the handbrake cable really should turn 90deg at the pivot point of the trailing arm (Mini's used a pivoting guide on the trailing arm) otherwise the hand brake cables could become lose/tight with the rise and fall of the suspension. You could have the scenario of applying the handbrake with a loaded trailer and when unloaded the brake would release.

Re: Hydraulic brakes

Posted: Sat, 16 Feb 2019, 6:55 pm
by knockdolian
bigherb wrote:
Sat, 16 Feb 2019, 6:49 pm
Just seen this, nice job, just one note the handbrake cable really should turn 90deg at the pivot point of the trailing arm (Mini's used a pivoting guide on the trailing arm) otherwise the hand brake cables could become lose/tight with the rise and fall of the suspension. You could have the scenario of applying the handbrake with a loaded trailer and when unloaded the brake would release.
Fair point. The photos are plan A. Still working on it. Got other jobs on the go at the moment. But will keep updating. Thanks

Re: Hydraulic brakes

Posted: Mon, 22 Apr 2019, 4:49 pm
by knockdolian
Having taken bigherbs point on board I’ve has a rethink ref the hand brake. They are upside down and the cables aren’t connected yet as I’m waiting for a second pulley. The 1” flat sits in the recess of the trailing arm and am M8 bolt secures it with a spacer in the original hole in the arm. I didn’t want to weld anything on the arm or axle so this looks like it will work. I’ll update when tested

Re: Hydraulic brakes

Posted: Mon, 22 Apr 2019, 5:01 pm
by knockdolian
This is the no spill hydraulic coupling. Very easy to connect and disconnect. My Trike weighs 750kg. Nearly twice that of a Reliant robin. This would work very well with smaller cars as well

Re: Hydraulic brakes

Posted: Mon, 22 Apr 2019, 5:46 pm
by Frothy Man
Keep going it's looking great. Hope to catch up with you soon to see it in the 'metal'.

Re: Hydraulic brakes

Posted: Mon, 22 Apr 2019, 5:56 pm
by bigherb
Yep that's the idea. I would connect the cables now to the original compensator, saves a lot of extra work. You will also need a keeper around pulleys to stop the cables jumping off an L shaped bit of metal bolted to the pivot bolt would do.

Re: Hydraulic brakes

Posted: Mon, 22 Apr 2019, 6:02 pm
by knockdolian
Yes, that’s the plan. I’ve cut the cable and have drilled a 4mm hole through an m8 bolt which will act as a clevis on the original compensator.
Thanks. Probably wouldn’t have thought about it had you not have pointed it out.